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Friday, March 22, 2013

Star Trek: The Motion Picture -- A costume design nightmare.

Posted on 9:51 AM by christofer D
Previous Star Trek posts. 

I came to Star Trek: The Motion Picture pre-warned. Kind of. It's famous for being The Worst Star Trek (a title for which there is already some stiff competition) and I'd already heard the various nicknames: The Motionless Picture, The Motion Sickness, etc. But even that didn't prepare me for what was in store. I mean, what were they even thinking?
In fact, watching The Motion Picture, it's pretty clear what they were thinking. They were thinking, "Let's make 2001: A Space Odyssey!" Except it turns out that if you give Gene Roddenberry a quadrillion dollars and too much creative leeway, what you actually end up with is a three-hour screensaver interspersed with shots of William Shatner emoting into the middle distance. Plus music. There are whole sequences where nothing happens except kaleidoscope space-travel effects and an impressive orchestral score for minutes at a time. Come to think of it, it's probably a great movie to watch while high. Thanks, 1979.

In all seriousness, this scene lasts for about 100 years in real time.
The many faults of this movie will surely be evident to anyone who watches it. It goes on for far too long. It's humourless. It lacks the emotional depth that made the original Star Trek series so compelling. The camera spends way too much time panning over William Shatner's increasingly luxuriant middle-aged arm hair. And then there's that whole situation going on with the costumes.
We need to talk about this.
Star Trek's original series ran on a budget of $3.75 per episode and regularly featured guest stars wearing bikinis made out of curtains and tinsel. Yet somehow its costumes still managed to look more plausible than the unsettling fleshbags we see in Star Trek: The Motion Picture. Starfleet's oldschool "red shirt/blue shirt" uniforms are iconic for a reason. They're extremely simple by sci-fi costume standards (which is why the 2009 reboot movie barely had to update the uniform at all), and make it easy to differentiate between characters when they're running around. The Motion Picture's uniforms, on the other hand, are distractingly terrible in every regard. The palette runs from beige to pale blue -- a selection of colours usually restricted to hospital scrubs and control underwear. Worse still, they're actually less practical than the original series uniforms, which in 1979 were seen as frivolous and outdated.
The original intention of The Motion Picture's Starfleet uniforms was to depict a futuristic society where people wore egalitarian, recyclable, organic clothes. Sadly, the eventual result was the creation of some of the worst outfits in science-fiction history. While 1960s Star Trek revelled in tinfoil armour and various other accoutrements of classic sci-fi ridiculousness, its cartoonish atmosphere allowed for a certain suspension of disbelief that The Motion Picture never quite managed. Supposedly designed by the best minds in the galaxy, Starfleet's new uniform was a nightmare in every regard:
  1. Physical impracticality. Catsuits with shoes attached to the legs are pointless and stupid. This is a prime example of what I think of as "idiot futurism". It's perfectly acceptable to design a stupid costume if it's for, like, Barbarella or Flash Gordon, but if you're trying to conceptualise a functional future society, then your costumes should make sense. If your cast is threatening to go on strike because they can't go to the bathroom without an assistant, then chances are your costumes aren't as great as you think they are. 
  2. Visual impracticality. From the perspective of the viewer, the new uniforms were downright confusing. The colour-coded science/communications/command uniforms of the original series provided a useful visual shorthand as to the positions of each crewmember, while the new uniforms had a near-incomprehensible internal logic. In an attempt to make Starfleet seem less militaristic, everyone had the same three uniforms: the dress uniform (the belted tunic thing Shatner wears in the picture above), plus two more casual outfits, which were (maybe?) interchangeable. The end result was that everyone on the bridge was wearing different outfits, all of which looked terrible.
  3. Eye-boggling hideousness. This is already a problem from the perspective of someone watching the movie, but it's also pretty terrible as a worldbuilding detail. If Starfleet is meant to be so utilitarian and clever, then the uniforms wouldn't be so goddamn ugly. 
There are so many contributing factors to the ugliness of the 1979 Starfleet uniforms that it's kind of miraculous. They're like the holy grail of bad fashion. In terms of colour, the problem is immediately obvious the first time you get distracted by a background extra who looks naked because they're wearing a skin-coloured body suit. Although of course, wearing flesh-tone clothes is already kind of an aesthetic disaster. For those of you who always feel guiltily puzzled when someone describes two colours as "clashing": it's similar to the Uncanny Valley. The closer two colours get to each other, the more uncomfortable they are to look at. This is doubly true for skin-tone clothes, because one of the colours that looks gross is you.
There is at least one scene in The Motion Picture where a male character ends up in an unfortunate moose-knuckle situation thanks to those flesh-coloured body suits. It's just not a good idea, is what I'm saying. The best type of uniform is one that's comfortable and practical enough that you can forget that you're wearing it, and it's difficult to forget about what you're wearing if you look really terrible in it. An argument could be made that 300 years in the future, people just don't care as much about appearances as we do in the 21st century, but this is plainly untrue because characters in The Motion Picture have a wide variety of hairstyles, makeup and jewellery. Anyhow, it's difficult to take your coworkers seriously if they're wearing beige catsuits that lovingly cling to every bra strap and roll of paunch, just like it's difficult to take Captain Kirk seriously when he's dressed like someone who works in a health spa onboard a luxury cruise liner:
The one breath of fresh air in this nightmare of taupe taupe onesies and weird Teletubbie belt-buckles is... Spock. Beautiful, beautiful Spock. When we first see him, he's on one of the most painted-on alien planet sets I've ever seen in a legitimate blockbuster movie. There's a giant glowing red foot statue that's probably meant to be made of volcanic rock but looks more like Lego, and a bunch of Vulcan notables wearing a selection of A+ robes. That's more like it.
Then once Spock inevitably decides to go back to the Enterprise, he's dressed in a cool hipster-goth cape and trousers. Not only would I happily wear this outfit myself, in real life, but it looks equally practical to the terrible Starfleet uniforms. Hell, take the poncho-cape off and he'll just be wearing a shirt and trousers, which is better than what Kirk and McCoy have to wear for 90% of the movie.
You can tell everyone on the bridge agrees with me, because they're all, "Holy shit! Someone wearing clothes that let him move around without getting a wedgie!" Spock is the fashion messiah. Which is kind of intriguing when you consider the fact that Vulcans are supposed to be ultra-rational and unconcerned with material things. I always found Vulcan fashion to be a particularly clever element of the visuals of Star Trek, because it's this blindingly obvious visual clue that Vulcans are nowhere near as logical as they claim. The intricacies of Vulcan style are completely in keeping with their love of tradition, ritual, and symbolism.
The weirdest thing about the costumes in Star Trek: The Motion Picture is that the same costume designer, Robert Fletcher, worked on the next three Star Trek films as well. In hindsight, this movie was an experiment that went embarrassingly wrong, and even the most intense Trekkies are hard-pressed to say much in its favour. I tend to assume that the costumes were another indicator of Gene Roddenberry going mad with power, and that Fletcher fared better when working with other directors.

Coming soon: The costumes of The Wrath of Khan.

Previous Star Trek posts.
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Posted in sci-fi, star trek, uniforms | No comments

Saturday, March 16, 2013

Fight Like A Girl.

Posted on 9:18 AM by christofer D
Just realised I'd posted this on Tumblr, but not on my blog! Along with a variety of cool sci-fi/fantasy/YA writers from around the world, I'm participating in the Fight Like A Girl short story anthology, a book focusing on strong female protagonists like Katniss Everdeen, Hermione Granger or Lisbeth Salander. If you're into fandom at all, you might recognise the screennames of a few of the authors involved: gyzym, jibrailis, bookshop, eleveninches, and many more!

We've already received an amazing amount of support for our Kickstarter, which has almost reached its goal of $8,300, so we only need a few more people to pledge before we can get this thing published! And we have a bunch of awesome additions we can implement if we get much funding over the original goal. 
You can pre-order the book from our Kickstarter, along with a bunch of other rewards for funding pledges. Plus, a few of the authors (including me!) are going to be on the podcast/radio show fandomspotting tonight! If you have any questions for myself or any of the authors involved, send them to fandomspotting's Tumblr askbox or tweet us @fandomspotting and we can answer them on-air! Plus we can read/answer any questions or comments sent to the show while it's still in progress. Fandomspotting's youtube channel is HERE, and we'll be on air at 7pm EST/11pm GMT.
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Saturday, March 9, 2013

Capitol Couture: Catching Fire.

Posted on 8:18 AM by christofer D
Previously: Capitol Couture in The Hunger Games.

Capitol Couture is back, but I'm a lot less optimistic about it than I was last time round. Although I love the Hunger Games books and thought the first movie was an excellent adaptation, the costumes leave much to be desired. I'd hoped that they might kick the weirdness up a notch after the relatively tame aesthetic of the first movie, but these publicity images seem to imply the opposite. From Star Trek to Blade Runner, futuristic sci-fi offers an opportunity to dream up some seriously interesting clothes that often end up influencing real-world fashion trends, but most of the costumes in the Hunger Games could easily be from everyday photoshoots of the actors.
Katniss Everdeen
In the books, a great deal of emphasis is put upon the lavish eccentricities of the people who live in the Capitol. On top of that, all the Tributes have stylists whose job it is to make them look as unique and eyecatching as possible. Why, then, did all the costumes in the first movie look like they'd been bought at the same store? And why are the promo pictures for Catching Fire so damn similar? Katniss, Effie and Johanna are all wearing some variety of frilly Alexander McQueen gown, while almost all of the men are wearing some type of suit.

Effie Trinket
In response to my review of the first movie, someone pointed out that the reason why so many extras in the Capitol look alike is because Effie Trinket is a trend-setter. This is a definite possibility, but we have to remember that during the first book/film, Effie Trinket is upwardly-mobile but not yet famous. She's the representative for one of the least interesting Districts, and presenting Peeta and Katniss to the Capitol is her big break. Considering the similarity between her clothes and the rainbow-coloured outfits of other characters in the first movie, it's more likely that she's following the extreme end of a particular fashion trend -- but even that, to me, seems slightly out of character.
Peeta Mellark
The Capitol is explicitly written as a society where appearance is key. Because Capitol citizens live off the wealth of the Districts, most of them don't "need" jobs, eliminating the direct connection between money and fashion. People try to look as individual as possible, because the ultimate status symbol is for people to applaud your originality as a trend-setter. To be a successful style icon in the Capitol, one must look fresh and new, have an easily recogniseable personal "brand", and be willing to put a great deal of effort into one's appearance -- including body modification. Effie's costumes would be perfect if they existed in a vaccuum, but their resemblance to the costumes of background extras detracts hugely from the overall effect.
Johanna Mason
Catching Fire introduces a whole new cast of Tribute characters, and their District-themed costumes should, in theory, give each one an opportunity to stand out. The most interesting outfits probably won't be revealed until the movie is released, but the pictures we've seen so far don't exactly fill me with confidence. Johanna Mason, who is portrayed in the books as looking spiky-haired, shameless, and implicitly butch, is wearing what looks like a bridesmaid's dress for Katniss' wedding. This outfit doesn't convey one iota of Johanna's personality or role in the movie, either within the context of the story (where she has her own stylist) or as a marketing image for the movie itself.
Gale

President Snow
Among the pictures we've seen so far, my favourites are probably Peeta, Beetee and Cinna. Cinna is relatively easy because his style is so subdued and cool, and Lenny Kravitz may or may not literally just be wearing his own clothes for the role. Peeta's costumes are good for similar reasons, because his aesthetic role is to complement Katniss rather than stand out. His image is "cute farmboy", and he knows it, so it makes sense for the Capitol stylists to dress him in comparatively simple outfits. As for Beetee, I enjoy the way the fabric of his waistcoat and trousers looks a little like circuit boards.
Beetee


Caesar Flickerman

Cinna
Finnick Odair is kind of an impossible character. In a movie full of attractive people in stylish outfits, he has to outshine all of them with his incandescent hotness. But even taking those difficult expectations into account, I'm not all that impressed by Sam Claflin -- partly because his name makes me think "COL = Claflin Out Loud", and partly because he's so blandly good-looking that I couldn't pick him out of a lineup of Taylor Kitsch lookalikes. (See this amazing Tumblr post about Jesse Williams as Finnick. WE COULDA HAD IT ALLLLL.) Hopefully his actual performance will be imbued with a Veela-like sexiness, but right now I'm not really feeling it. That being said, I do rather like his ocean-themed outfit, which is far more District-appropriate than any of the other new Tribute pictures we've seen so far. I could be wrong, but the sarong/trousers he wears look a bit like Thai fisherman's trousers?
Finnick Odair

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Posted in costume design, hunger games | No comments

Sunday, March 3, 2013

Costume design and movie/TV review masterpost.

Posted on 7:26 AM by christofer D
In an attempt to make Hello, Tailor easier to navigate, I try to update my masterpost every few months. This post obviously doesn't include every post on the blog, but if you feel a real yearning for reviews of catwalk shows from six months ago then feel free to faff around with the tags. Try stuff like fashion week for more general posts, or Spring 2012 for more specific timeframes. More recent fashion posts are also organised by designer, ie Chanel; Alexander McQueen. Aside from that, the rest of the blog is mostly dedicated to costume design and TV/movie reviews.
My favourite costume design posts can be found under the movie costumes I have loved tag, which begins with A fan's introduction to costume design. Otherwise, I've divided this masterpost into various movie and TV subcategories, which are probably easier to browse than my tags.

Movie costumes I have loved.

Master & Commander Part 1 and Part 2. 

Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy

Hanna

A Knight's Tale

True Romance

Doomsday

Skyfall: the costumes.

Superhero movies

The Marvel and comics tags are a good place to start, but here's a more conclusive rundown of my superhero posts:

Movie Costumes I Have Loved: Thor.

Movie costumes I have loved: Pepper Potts in the Iron Man franchise.

If there's no such thing as a vintage Captain America venereal disease PSA then I'm going to be so disappointed.

Some hopes and dreams for The Dark Knight Rises.

Avengers costume design posts: 

Pre-Movie Avengers post: Loki's costumes, armour, and image-consciousness.

The costumes and characters of The Avengers. Part 1: SHIELD. Part 2: Tony Stark, Pepper Potts, and Bruce Banner. Part 3: Steve Rogers, Captain America. Part 4: Black Widow and Hawkeye.

Iron Man 3 promo pics.


Alien series

The costumes of Alien. Part 1: Uniforms and characterisation. & The costumes of Alien. Part 2: Space suits, retrofuturism, and Prometheus.

The costumes of Aliens, or, James Cameron says Put A Gun On It.

Disturbing viral marketing for Prometheus: Happy birthday David, from Weyland Industries.

Prometheus: Proof that epic sci-fi doesn't belong in the Alien franchise.

Prometheus and the fannish mindset: Plotholes Aren't Everything.

Costume design and the crew of the Prometheus.


General movie posts.

The iconic menswear of James Bond.

Skyfall: Bond as a blunt instrument, and the new Bond Girls.

The new Judge Dredd movie is a great chick-flick.

Les Miserables: Seriously, Javert? Seriously??

The Hollow Crown series: Richard II & Henry IV, Part 1 & Henry IV, Part 2.

Bill Cunningham New York

Oswald Boateng: A Man's Story.

The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo, H&M, and the difficulties of marketing a female action heroine, and The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo review post.

Dressing For The Apocalypse: a guide to post-apocalyptic movie fashion.

Capitol Couture in The Hunger Games.

Snow White & The Huntsman: How to tell a fairy story. and Snow White & The Huntsman: The prince doesn't get the girl; the girl gets the kingdom.


TV shows

The Teen Wolf tag should lead to all Teen Wolf posts, beginning with Teen Wolf 101: A guide to the eighth wonder of our world.

The Elementary tag should lead to all Elementary posts, beginning with From Arthur Conan Doyle to New York City's "Elementary": The Costume Design of Holmes and Watson, and Elementary: characterisation, the unaired pilot, and its relationship to Sherlock Holmes canon.

Check the Doctor Who tag for posts about Doctor Who.

Person of Interest: The man in the suit. 

Costume design and The Hour: Freddie Lyons and Bel Rowley, Menswear, and Womenswear.

The Bletchley Circle (a female-led 1950s detective drama) and its costume design post.

The Revenge tag should lead to all Revenge posts, beginning with New style crush: Nolan Ross in REVEEEENNNGGE.

The Good Wife: Parenting Made Easy.

Star Trek's original 1965 pilot episode: The Cage.  

The Killing (AKA Forbrydelsen), and the iconic status of Sarah Lund's jumpers.

The most important thing about BBC Sherlock's "A Scandal In Belgravia".

Game Of Thrones: Unwashed Northerners, royal conspiracies, and decapitations all round.

Miscellany

One Direction, teenage Tumblr fandom, and how to stay safe and private online.

Honour Among Punks: Sherlock Holmes like you've never seen her before.

Star Trek Into Darkness teaser trailer theories.

Secret Avengers #1.

Neil Marshall set to direct "The Last Voyage of Demeter".

Girl Walk//All Day
 
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Posted in costume design, masterpost, movie costumes i have loved, movies, tv | No comments

Saturday, March 2, 2013

Dolce and Gabbana, Fall 2013.

Posted on 6:52 AM by christofer D
Entirely by accident, this season's Dolce & Gabbana turned out to be incredibly topical. Inspired by the Vatican and showing at Fashion Week just after the news broke about the Pope's retirement, this collection was guaranteed to appear prominently on the pages of every fashion magazine in the known universe. The only thing better than tall thin ladies wearing sparkly clothes is tall thin ladies wearing sparkly clothes in a newsworthy context. For this reason, I'm going to take a few moments to consider the implications of our briefly Popeless world. NEWS.
photos from Style.com
You know in movies when there's a retired cop (probably played by Bruce Willis) who is brought back for One Last Job? Well, I'm kinda wondering if it's the same with popes. Like, if in the next couple of weeks there's an unexpected demonic armaggedon, can we call Pope Benedict XVI out of retirement to lead the faithful into holy war? Ignoring the fact that it's kind of illogical already to be able to hand in your resignation from being the earthly voice of god, I'm curious about the Pope Emergency issue. Hopefully we can still rely on Ratzinger to come to our aid in times of Biblical disaster.


Back to D&G: this show was so luxuriously detailed that it looked more like Couture than Ready To Wear. The embroidery and beadwork was inspired by Catholic art such as the Byzantine mosaics in the cathedral at Monreale, although the focus was more often on D&G's home island of Sicily.

The aesthetic was a combination of celebrations of Catholic imagery, and outfits inspired by the red vestments of Cardinals. If anything, this show offered a classier view of the Catholic church than is currently being projected by the church itself, as the focus was purely on the beauty of its art rather than any deeper meaning.

The only real low point was the interlude of ten grey tweed outfits in the middle of the show. Why were these outfits even there? They were certainly more traditional for Fall/Winter RTW styles, but the transition from the red and gold luxury of the Vatican to old-fashioned grey tweed seemed needlessly abrupt.

The shoes were a major highlight, with their intricate gold designs fitting perfectly with the theme. Rumour has it that the Pope's red shoes used to be manufactured by Prada -- perhaps D&G are angling for a Papal endorsement?



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Posted in dolce and gabbana, fall 2013, fashion, needs more gold | No comments
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