Why you need to watch Spanish Snow White movie ...

  • Subscribe to our RSS feed.
  • Twitter
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Facebook
  • Digg

Wednesday, June 6, 2012

Chanel: Cruise 2013 at Versailles.

Posted on 9:45 AM by christofer D
Previously: See the Chanel tag for further reports on Karl Lagerfeld's forays into a variety of intriguing design themes that usually boil down to "I'm stupendously rich."

Karl Lagerfeld and the court of Versailles -- to be honest, I can't believe this hadn't happened before. Lagerfeld, with his ever-present chalk-white ponytail, aura of eccentric aristocracy, and conscious detachment from the everyday wants and needs of the proles, couldn't fit in any better if he tried.
Studio photos from Chanel's lookbook; show photos from Style.com.
This being Chanel, the eighteenth-century French influences only went so far. For all that Lagerfeld adores extravagance when it comes to showmanship, he still adheres to the relatively sedate and conservative Chanel ethos. While this show was rather more cheeky and street-cool than many recent Chanel collections, it was mostly restricted to a calming colour palette of fondant-like pastels in Chanel-favoured fabrics.

The show took place at the gardens in Versailles, the models strutting around one of the fountains to a soundtrack of M.I.A. and harpsichord remixes. The styling choices were impeccable: a modern, Harajuku-like twist on powdered wigs in the form of two-tone pastel ponytail/pageboy haircuts, plus every model was wearing snazzy brothel-creepers. A nod to both the old and the new, alongside some cool Chanel-symbol beauty marks that, unlike the pale blue pageboy wigs, I suspect may make an appearance on actual humans outside of catwalk land.
The most direct Versailles influences were the pannier skirts and pantaloons, decked out in pastel frills and lace. Short and stylised, those outfits were 18th century by way of Lolita and Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette rather than being a real nod towards historical fashions.

Karl Lagerfeld is self-aware enough that I'm sure this show's peasant vs super-rich undertones were entirely intentional. There were a couple of male models in the show and they, along with the female models wearing the trouser-suit outfits, looked like pantomime parodies of pageboys.
The suits with knee-breeches looked almost costumey, like the girls-dressed-as-boys outfits worn in comic plays, and the wide-legged trouser suits were like a modern retelling of Marie Antoinette's fetish for dressing up as a faux peasant and working on her own private "farm". They were made from traditional Chanel suit fabrics in frothy cupcake shades of pink and blue, and the baggy trousers were only peasant-like in that they had artfully unhemmed cuffs. The end result was a series of outfits that were one half neatly-tailored Chanel womenswear, one half Japanese street style Lolita parody.

For me, this show was both more youthful and more interesting than expected. Cruise/resort collections tend to be unimaginative and mostly focussed around easy summer staples like bikinis and maxi-dresses, but this show was 72 outfits long and covered a wide variety of styles from straight-up 18th century costuming to modern party dresses and hip-hop influenced brothel-creepers. The biggest surprise was the prevalence of faux-gold and purposeful tackiness -- themes that the mature designers at Chanel usual shy away from.

Footage of the full show is available online here, and hi-res mid-walk photos can be found here. 

Email ThisBlogThis!Share to XShare to Facebook
Posted in "it's historical", chanel | No comments
Newer Post Older Post Home

0 comments:

Post a Comment

Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom)

Popular Posts

  • Costumes and design in NBC's Hannibal, Part 1.
    I probably should've been writing about the costumes of Hannibal from the very start, but I confess to feeling a little overwhelmed. The...
  • The costumes of X-Men: First Class, Part 2: Menswear.
    Part 1: Womenswear. OK, let's be real here. 99% of this section is gonna be about Erik and Charles, firstly because 99% of the movie is...
  • I watched the Dungeons & Dragons movie so you don't have to.
    Oh Jeremy Irons, you multifaceted enigma. Sometimes you're a critically acclaimed Shakespearean actor. Other times you do weird intervie...
  • Costuming and design in Hannibal: Bella Crawford, between life and death.
    Previously: Costuming and design in Hannibal , Part 1 , Part 2 , and Part 3 (Hannibal's wrist watch.) , Part 4 (Abigail Hobbs) . I alrea...
  • Master & Commander: The Far Side of the World. (Part 1)
    Master & Commander is #1 on my list of movies where I pine for a sequel. The thing is, even nine years on, they could still totally make...
  • Costuming & design in NBC's Hannibal: Hannibal Lecter's wristwatch.
    As part of my ongoing series on costume and design in Hannibal , I'm going to post my first guest blog with contributions from an outsi...
  • Teen Wolf 2x09: Party Guessed.
    Previously: Teen Wolf 101: An introduction to the eighth wonder of our world . (Now available in audio as well!) Why does Teen Wolf hate ha...
  • Teen Wolf: Tattoo.
    Previously: Teen Wolf 101: An introduction to the eighth wonder of our world . Welcome to Teen Wolf! The show where the shirts are off, and ...
  • Pre-Fall 2012: Max Azria, Missoni, Rachel Zoe, and Erdem.
    Hervé Léger by Max Azria Plain, pretty dresses: something you won't usually find much of on this blog. However, something about this lin...
  • Teen Wolf: "Motel California".
    Previously on Teen Wolf: "Frayed". If there was an award for "most arbitrary reason for a shirtless scene", Teen Wolf wo...

Categories

  • "it's historical"
  • 1920s
  • 1940s
  • 1950s
  • 2014
  • accessories
  • agent carter
  • agents of shield
  • alexander mcqueen
  • alexander wang
  • alien
  • alien quadrilogy
  • aliens
  • apocalypse fashion
  • armour
  • avengers
  • bad movies
  • bad reviews
  • batman
  • bbc
  • benedict cumberbatch
  • big bang press
  • books
  • captain america
  • chanel
  • china
  • chris kane
  • comics
  • constantine
  • conventions
  • cosplay
  • costume design
  • costumes
  • couture
  • dance
  • dc
  • dior
  • dior homme
  • doctor who
  • dolce and gabbana
  • duckie brown
  • duro olowu
  • dystopias
  • elementary
  • erdem
  • fall 2012
  • fall 2013
  • fanart
  • fandom
  • fanfiction
  • fashion
  • fashion week
  • fausto puglisi
  • figure skating
  • game of thrones
  • gareth pugh
  • givenchy
  • goth
  • gwyneth paltrow
  • haider ackermann
  • hannibal
  • harry potter
  • hugo awards
  • hunger games
  • interstellar
  • interviews
  • IRL
  • iron man 3
  • it's historical
  • james bond
  • jason wu
  • jean paul gaultier
  • jonathan saunders
  • jw anderson
  • karl lagerfeld
  • ladies in suits
  • links post
  • london
  • london fashion week
  • louis vuitton
  • marc jacobs
  • marketing
  • marvel
  • mary katrantzou
  • masterpost
  • mcu
  • mediocre
  • menswear
  • menswear fashion week
  • milan
  • movie costumes i have loved
  • movie costumes i have loved
  • movie reviews
  • movies
  • mugler
  • needs more gold
  • neil marshall
  • new york
  • nyfw
  • oscars
  • other writing
  • ozwald boateng
  • pacific rim
  • paris fashion week
  • peggy carter
  • penny dreadful
  • persional taste
  • person of interest
  • personal taste
  • peter pilotto
  • podcasts
  • prabal gurung
  • pre-fall 2012
  • pre-fall 2013
  • pre-spring
  • prometheus
  • punk
  • ralph lauren
  • rants
  • resort 2013
  • retrofuturism
  • revenge
  • rick owens
  • s/s
  • scandinavia
  • sci fi
  • sci-fi
  • scotland
  • set design
  • shakespeare
  • sherlock
  • sherlock holmes
  • SHIELD
  • shoes
  • snowpiercer
  • spring 2012
  • spring 2013
  • spring 2014
  • star trek
  • star trek into darkness
  • star wars
  • starfleet
  • stargate
  • stoker
  • street style
  • suits
  • superheroes
  • superman
  • supernatural
  • tailoring
  • teen wolf
  • the hour
  • the row
  • theatre
  • theyskens theory
  • thom browne
  • thor
  • thor 2
  • threeasfour
  • tom ford
  • tom hiddleston
  • tv
  • ulyana sergeenko
  • uniforms
  • upholstery
  • versace
  • victoria beckham
  • video post
  • viktor and rolf
  • vivienne westwood
  • walter van beirendonck
  • watches
  • writing
  • x-men
  • yohji yamamoto
  • zac posen

Blog Archive

  • ►  2015 (4)
    • ►  January (4)
  • ►  2014 (38)
    • ►  December (3)
    • ►  November (3)
    • ►  October (3)
    • ►  September (1)
    • ►  August (1)
    • ►  July (3)
    • ►  May (1)
    • ►  April (8)
    • ►  March (4)
    • ►  February (2)
    • ►  January (9)
  • ►  2013 (68)
    • ►  December (2)
    • ►  November (2)
    • ►  October (7)
    • ►  September (9)
    • ►  August (5)
    • ►  July (9)
    • ►  June (6)
    • ►  May (4)
    • ►  April (3)
    • ►  March (5)
    • ►  February (11)
    • ►  January (5)
  • ▼  2012 (122)
    • ►  December (6)
    • ►  November (11)
    • ►  October (11)
    • ►  September (13)
    • ►  August (9)
    • ►  July (12)
    • ▼  June (13)
      • Mugler: Menswear and Resort 2013.
      • Spring 2013 Menswear: Versace loves you.
      • Resort 2013: Alexander McQueen, Mother of Pearl, B...
      • Costume design and the crew of the Prometheus.
      • Resort 2013: Versace, Louis Vuitton, and the undea...
      • Menswear Fashion Week and the Zoolander Effect.
      • Resort 2013: Alexander Wang, Peter Pilotto, Zac Po...
      • Prometheus and the fannish mindset: Plotholes Aren...
      • Prometheus: Proof that epic sci-fi doesn't belong ...
      • Resort 2013: J. Mendel, Balenciaga, Givenchy, and ...
      • A Beginner's Guide to Resort Season: Marc Jacobs, ...
      • Chanel: Cruise 2013 at Versailles.
      • Snow White & The Huntsman: The prince doesn't get ...
    • ►  May (8)
    • ►  April (6)
    • ►  March (7)
    • ►  February (13)
    • ►  January (13)
  • ►  2011 (32)
    • ►  December (8)
    • ►  November (10)
    • ►  October (13)
    • ►  September (1)
Powered by Blogger.

About Me

christofer D
View my complete profile